Two outstanding American made Italian inspired cheeses

I have remarked previously on these pages about the fact that some dairies advertise that their milk is superior because it comes from “happy” cows. In fact, as far back as 1907 the makers of Carnation Condensed Milk advertised that their product was made from the milk of “contented cows” and the California milk advisory board’s slogan is “Great cheese comes from happy cows. Happy cows come from California.”  While PETA and other animal rights groups challenge the claim that there is even such a thing as a happy or contented  cow being raised for the purpose of dairy production, research indicates that cows do suffer from stress and perhaps even depression and that these conditions can have a negative impact on both the quantity and quality of the milk they produce. So while perhaps few, if any, cows are joyous or rollicking with laughter, we can assume that relatively speaking, well cared for cows produce better, richer, more flavorful milk and cheese. Both of today’s cheeses are good examples of attentive production and dedication to high quality methods.

The cheeses  we are tasting are both influenced by classical Italian recipes and styles but with an American twist.

Lida Gold (Calkins Dairy, Pennsylvania, Raw  Cows Milk, Vegetable Rennet)

Lida Gold can clearly be thought of as a derivative cheese, inspired by the Italian mountain cheese called Montasio. It is more likely that you a familiar with the  similar and quite popular Assiago and while close in texture Lida Gold is probably more flavorful than most of the imported Assiagos you will find. While not a washed rind cheese and therefore not particularly pungent, it is anointed with olive oil and mashed tomatoes and those flavors are certainly noticeable. You will probably note some fruitiness  and some say  a bit of  the essence of new mown hay. Like all the Calkins products this is a cheese whose creation was well thought out before presented to the public. Reflecting its Italian heritage, it goes well with a Pinot Grigio or a Soave. Or how about an Italian  beer like Perroni? 

BellaVitano Merlot ( Sartori, Wisconsin, Pasteurized Cows Milk)

The Satrori family has been making a wide range of Italian style cheese in rural Wisconsin since the 1930s. While now a fairly large producer, they keep garnering both US and European awards for the high quality of their cheese. The BellaVitano Merlot has been around only since the late 1990s. It is kind of like a moist Parmesan crossed with a Wisconsin cheddar. Then it is infused with Merlot wine. It is quite soft and fruity, winey and pleasant smelling with a nice mouth feel. It melts nicely, makes a great addition to a cheese plate, especially since it is not at all typical of what would be expected from a Wisconsin cheese. I like serving it with a soft red wine; Merlot of course, but any low tannin red California or Italian wine is a perfect match. Maybe try a hard cider?

- Burt "The Big Cheese" Siegel